Tastes of Home

Edinburgh with Carinne Geil Botta 

Growing up, I always thought of home as a place: four walls and a roof that housed a family, a life. My childhood was defined by the rolling hills of Pennsylvania, my teenage summers spent along the sun-washed coast of North Carolina. My early adulthood was curated in the small towns of southeastern England and my late twenties, amongst the cobbled streets of Edinburgh, just to name a few. 

Over the course of thirteen moves, my definition of home has slowly morphed from a place to a feeling, one of comfort and nostalgia, of being known and understood. And in the frequent longing to be in multiple places at once, I’ve long found solace in foods that evoke cherished memories from each stage of life. As Edinburgh has since cemented itself as home—both in place and spirit—I’ve crafted my perfect nostalgic day of eating across the city, sprinkled with mouthwateringly delicious eateries and memories from then and now.  

BREAKFAST

Coffee & Pastries - cafēn, Lannan, ante, Room Rumours Coffee 

I grew up with a mother who doubled as a coffee aficionado. Someone who sought out specific beans and roasters and learnt the nuances of brewing methods to fully appreciate coffee as a craft. Remarkably, it took me until my early twenties to fall into similar patterns. Now, a freshly brewed coffee and aromatic pastry is a ritual I eagerly await each morning. Edinburgh has no shortage of brilliant cafes, home to a diverse range of speciality coffee roasters and bakers who care for their community as much as the craft itself. 

Nestled in New Town is cafēn, a cosy brew bar that features an ever-changing coffee menu hand-roasted at their own nearby roastery. The intentionality behind each choice, from their drinks to Scandinavian-inspired interiors, is evident, making this shop a must-visit. And to accompany your coffee, just a few minutes down the street is Lannan, home to some of the best pastries you’ll find. Having risen to rapid international fame, their bakes are as beautiful aesthetically as they taste. Some of my favourite pastries off their ever-changing menu include medjool date & butterscotch, strawberry flan, and rhubarb almond cake. 

Ante is found near the top of Leith Walk, a sister project to the beloved upstairs neighbourhood wine bar, Spry. Offering guest espressos, batch brews, and hand-pours, the menu details origins and tasting notes—there is always something for everyone. And complementing their coffee is their mouthwatering seasonal brunch menu, from the sweet rhubarb danishes and miso cookies to their savoury leek fritters and fig, walnut, and Cashel Blue galettes. 

Tucked away in the arches of Old Town lies Room Rumours Coffee, a speciality coffee shop and ‘donuterie’. Couple-owned, it’s the perfect fix of caffeine and sugar right before hopping on the train at nearby Waverley Station. And accompanying Room Rumours Coffee’s delicious single-origin drinks and memorable homemade doughnuts is some of the friendliest staff you’ll find. 

LUNCH:

Pasta - Little Capo, Sotto, The Artisan Pasta Maker 

My hometown of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, has a rich history of Italian heritage, dating back to the late 1800s. Much of my childhood was defined by hearty Italian food: manicotti, tagliatelle bolognese, and zucchini fritti. Through the years, it’s cemented itself as my comfort cuisine of choice, and here in Edinburgh, I find exquisite glimpses of that comfort in restaurants like Little Capo, Sotto, and The Artisan Pasta Maker. 

Little Capo is one of the newest additions to the Michelin Guide, thanks to their moody decor, homemade pastas, and aperitivo bar and dining counter. From their asparagus and scamorza risotto to the ox cheek and celeriac ragù, each dish is bold, fresh, and flavoursome. 

Just down the street from Little Capo is Sotto—also a newcomer to the Michelin Guide. This buzzy enoteca & trattoria lies in the heart of the charming neighbourhood of Stockbridge and is a frequent food stop for both locals and visitors alike. Their lunch set menu—£18 for one course, £22 for two, £26 for three—features classic dishes including mezze maniche carbonara and ragù di cervo and is one of the best deals around.

A hidden gem off Dundas Street, The Artisan Pasta Maker might be a small restaurant in size, but it’s one that’s full of heart. Offering both dine-in dishes and fresh pasta for takeaway, you never grow tired of their dishes: plin al brasato, gnocchi gorgonzola, and tagliatelle nduja e burrata, just to name a few.  

DINNER:

Seafood - Barry Fish, The Little Chartroom, Scran and Scallie  

Every summer, for as long I can remember, my family would pile into our car and drive eleven hours south, down the east coast of the United States, to the white-sand beaches and scorching sunshine of North Carolina. Surrounded by twenty-plus members of my extended family, days would be spent swimming in the sea with evenings hunkered down at local seafood restaurants, devouring the catch of the day. 

As an adult, I’ve continued my love affair with seafood, lucky enough to live in a place with such bountiful larder and easy access to fresh fish every day, year-round. Edinburgh’s seafood scene has continued to blossom, home to incredible, Michelin-recognised, seafood eateries like Barry Fish, nestled along Leith’s shore. Their signature starter—fish pastrami with aioli, capers, and dried grapes—as well as their lobster and smoked fish agnolotti remain two of my favourite seafood dishes I’ve had anywhere in the city. Coupled with an incredibly welcoming team, Barry Fish is a must-try for seafood lovers.  

The vast majority of restaurants in Edinburgh include seafood options, including two of my favourites: The Little Chartroom and Scran and Scallie. The former is a Nordic-style restaurant with a rotating menu, also found in the foodie haven of Leith, with buttery scallops and treacle-cured chalk stream trout worth fawning over. On the other hand, the latter is a Stockbridge gastropub that handily balances pub classics with an outrageously delicious and creative menu. Highlighting the best of seasonal Scottish produce, Scran and Scallie serves oysters from Islay, seared Orkney scallops, and my favourite fish and chips in the city. 

Through tracing this day of eating, home no longer asks me to choose a single place or time, but rather lives in the gentle ritual of my morning coffee, in a bowl of pasta that tastes like childhood and in the seafood that carries the salt of summers long past. These meals stitch together the many versions of myself that I’ve been, grounding me in the life I’m building now. And in that sense, home is not just where I am but what I carry with me, one nostalgic bite at a time.